宋朝为什么不能吃狗肉?(2 / 2)

虽宋朝人对立法禁食狗肉,不过在宋的上会,不行食用狗肉——这一点跟秦与两汉时完全不同。在宋人笔下,汴京与临安的饮食店与肉铺子非之繁多,本上卖的都是猪肉、羊肉,狗肉店不能说没有,却难得一见。有人统计过《东京梦华录》到的所有肉类食,发现羊肉的比例为36,猪肉的比例是12,鸡肉等禽类肉食为11,鱼贝类为15,完全没有出现狗肉。

许多宋朝士大夫甚至以食狗肉为耻。苏东坡是宋出了名的美食家,他贬谪黄州时,到“黄州好猪肉,价贱如粪土。富不肯吃,贫不煮”,便发了红烧肉这美食。苏东坡尽嗜肉,却不吃狗肉。

宋神宗熙宁年间,苏轼在徐州太守,到地方府的宴上有狗肉这菜,觉得不可理,质问为要屠狗设宴。司法官员告诉他:法律不禁止杀狗。苏轼又问,宴用狗肉,乎礼制吗?司法官员说,乎礼制。引述《礼记乡饮酒》的一句话来说:“烹狗于东方,乃不禁。”

苏轼驳:“荒谬!《礼记》也说:‘宾客之牛角尺。’为,待宾客所用的牛角尺把长难就不应该禁止屠牛?”我们,中农耕王朝,一都有严禁屠杀耕牛的禁令。这在农耕时是非理的。

苏轼又引用孔子埋狗的典故:“仲尼之畜狗死,使子贡埋之,曰:‘吾闻之也,敝帷不弃,为埋马也敝盖不弃,为埋狗也。’”孔夫子养的狗死了,叫子贡去埋葬,说:“我听闻,旧的车帷子不要丢弃,可用来埋掩死去的马旧的车盖也不要丢掉,可用来埋掩死去的狗。”苏轼体会到孔子的仁爱精神,认为家养的狗死了,“犹当埋,不忍食肉,况可得而杀乎?”可见苏轼是对杀狗的,为他觉得狗与人类关亲密,杀之心有不忍。

不过没有材显示苏轼在徐州发过“屠狗禁令”,来苏轼是对在举行宴乡饮时宰杀家犬,不干涉民间是否食用狗肉。

实际上,在宋士大夫家庭的宴席上,是不允许摆上狗肉的,若以狗肉宴请宾客,将视为不礼节,不懂礼貌。“狗肉不上席”的说法,便是从宋开始行开来的。这里的席,是席,待宾客的宴席,非私人餐桌。私人餐桌可以不讲究,宴席则需要注礼仪。宋人认为,狗肉属于贱,不可登大雅之堂。

宋人还将屠狗食狗的习惯跟黑会的生联在一起。如宋人记载说,宣城县境内,“十里间有聚落,皆亡赖恶子不逞宗室啸集,屠牛杀狗,酿私酒,铸毛钱,楮币,凡违禁害人之,靡所不有。”这不法之徒啸聚在一处,屠牛杀狗,酿私酒,伪假钞,干的都是违禁的。宰杀牛狗吃肉,成了黑会生方的标之一。。

宋初,汴京也有一帮“恶少无赖之人,肆凶不逞,小则赌博,大则屠牛马、销铜钱,行不忌。输钱无以偿,则为穿窬,若党类颇多,则为劫盗纵火,行奸杀人”。他们在京城开设赌坊,诱人赌博,又“屠牛马驴狗以食”,仿佛不宰条狗来吃,不足以彰显他们的叛逆精神。所以宋太宗要开封府:“严戒坊市捕之,犯定行处斩,引匿不以闻与同罪。”抓到的罪犯,处以死刑。不过,请注,开封府要抓捕的不是食用狗肉的一般市民,而是“肆凶不逞”的黑会人员。

顾宋朝人处理食狗问的得失,我觉得有三点启示是值得记的:一、在一个未成食狗禁忌习俗的会,府如立法禁止民间食用狗肉,将是一种冒失的策行为二、府可以禁止在宴上食用狗肉,为官员应当比民更加严格的礼制约束三、上会应该自觉带头不吃狗肉,“狗肉不上席”的“舌尖上的价值”。

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